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RoyR

New Build

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Ok, you guys have me convinced I can do this...talking to the city about the permit requirements.

 

Made my first mistake, didn't plan the length to be a multiple of 12"...sigh.

 

Question:

 

1. Can I use 1/4" cement board for the sides/bottom (going to stucco the sides), got a height restriction (37") with that detail on the outside of the house, see picture.

 

2. Intend to use 1/2" for the top, looking at a combo of tile and granite for the counter top.

 

Regards,

 

PS. Do I want to use HardieBacker board, or Durock Cement board?

post-27868-0-82928200-1394561389_thumb.jpg

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I used 1/4 Hardie for sides and 1/2 for top. I did tile on top and stucco on the sides.

Mine is 8' long. Kind of wish I'd made it about a foot longer than I did, if you've got room go big. The difference in material cost is nothing.

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Thanks for the reply...for a minute there, I thought I was in a vacuum!!! Mine is going to be a U shape, two 10ft legs,...lots of work ahead :(

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Moving along slowly...wish I made the studs 34"...going to have problems with that detail along the side of the house. May have to split the trex board on the base to give me more space. Next I have to design the octagon, to form the end of the bar.

 

post-27868-0-23211700-1395161689_thumb.jpg

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Spent some time on the end-table....going with a modular approach. Need to buy a bandsaw to cut the trex to 1/2"....need the space. Obviously, once this monstrosity is leveled, bolted together and placed in place, it's not moving...what material must I use for the backside, next to the house? Just the bare cement board, or leave it completely open?

post-27868-0-08281000-1395689988_thumb.jpg

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Where are all the people that used to be on these forums....I went to HD tonight to pickup the 1/4" cement board for the sides, but it looked awfully thin....left with the 1/2" cement board, but the thing would be hella heavy if I use that...what should I use, and what screws?

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Most guys use the 1/4. I used the 1/2 which was probably overkill, but was only 50 cents more per sheet. HD will carry screws that are specific to your cement board, whatever brand it is. This is important, as the screw are galvanized with a special head that will countersink in the board. The screws should be in the same section. You will want to use the 1 5/8 lengths.

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Most guys use the 1/4. I used the 1/2 which was probably overkill, but was only 50 cents more per sheet. HD will carry screws that are specific to your cement board, whatever brand it is. This is important, as the screw are galvanized with a special head that will countersink in the board. The screws should be in the same section. You will want to use the 1 5/8 lengths.

 

The HD cement screws was for wood....looking for self-drilling cement screws, looks like Lowes may have some!

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_440470-37672-47135_0__?productId=4259345&Ntt=cement+board+screws&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dcement%2Bboard%2Bscrews&facetInfo=

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The screws made for the hardiebacker (Is that what you used?) will drill into the studs with no problem. The emphasis is not of the self drilling nature of the screws, but rather on the screws compatabilty with the cement board. I used, and virtually everyone else here, the screws that were called out by the manufacturer for the cement board in question. I used two of the big boxes of screws and never had a problem. If the screw doesn't bite at first, back it all the way out so that the cement board is flush against the stud again, then screw it in again. I'd hate to see your sheet material fail because of wrong screws used. Your build is looking too good so far!

David

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The HD cement screws was for wood....looking for self-drilling cement screws, looks like Lowes may have some!

 

http://www.lowes.com...rews&facetInfo=

 

Sorry, I just took the time to follow the link you posted. Those screws would work, provided the are the correct length. Those are 1 1/4, and they look to be more expensive than the ones HD sells.

 

FYI, I checked the description of the ones HD sells and they also report to be able to drill into metal studs down to 20 gauge.

 

 

 

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Sorry, I just took the time to follow the link you posted. Those screws would work, provided the are the correct length. Those are 1 1/4, and they look to be more expensive than the ones HD sells.

 

FYI, I checked the description of the ones HD sells and they also report to be able to drill into metal studs down to 20 gauge.

 

You're right, got the HD Durock cement screws, and if you start in reverse, then forward it actually works pretty well. Started with the 1/4" Hardi on the bottom of the counter top overhang. Also tried the Durock, and I like it better. I think the 1/4" on the sides would be fine.

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Why are people using 1/2" hardi for the countertop underlayment and not durock?

Its mainly preference. some guys will tell you Chevy makes the better truck, and some will say Ford does. Same with the cement board. I chose PermaBase because its rated for exterior use. I think of all the cement boards, Hardi is the only one not rated for exterior use… I could be wrong on that one so don't take my word for it

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My outdoor kitchen build got delayed by two years, cause I bough a boat, and had to wait. Here is the final product...

 

Still need to add some type of finish to the counter top side, not sure if I'm going to do stucco, or tile.

 

20AWG Steel Framing

Dedicated cement footing for the outdoor kitchen.

1/2" Durock on the SIDES + scratch coat, and stucco.

1/2" Hardi on the TOP - + Brazilian Granite.

 

13246153_10154279775457642_5289425909532

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This could be a dumb question - but why would the length need to be a multiple of 12"?

Just nice to know where the studs are when you attach the durock / wire mesh on the sides, but you could mark them too....

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