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Darthsith

Weber genesis gold B NG to LP

13 posts in this topic

First you need to determine which type of valve your grill was built with. Weber supplied their grills with 2 different types. One has distinct low/med/high settings the other is a continuously variable type. If you have the CV type it's easy. Simply swap out the orifices and you're golden (this works either way LP to NG or LP to NG). If you have the 3 preset type (most common) you cannot just do an orifice swap (though you will read in many places ignorant people telling you it works fine. It does not. The internal "control orifices" on that type are different between NG to LP. Now knowing that going from LP to NG is possible BUT the valves themselves need to be modified (not for the faint of heart) easy but requires GREAT care and decent skills.

So about the only way to do it PROPERLY is to swap out the manifold for the fuel you want. Good luck on the project.

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5 hours ago, underthehood said:

First you need to determine which type of valve your grill was built with. Weber supplied their grills with 2 different types. One has distinct low/med/high settings the other is a continuously variable type. If you have the CV type it's easy. Simply swap out the orifices and you're golden (this works either way LP to NG or LP to NG). If you have the 3 preset type (most common) you cannot just do an orifice swap (though you will read in many places ignorant people telling you it works fine. It does not. The internal "control orifices" on that type are different between NG to LP. Now knowing that going from LP to NG is possible BUT the valves themselves need to be modified (not for the faint of heart) easy but requires GREAT care and decent skills.

So about the only way to do it PROPERLY is to swap out the manifold for the fuel you want. Good luck on the project.

Will a kit such as this not work? 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Natural-Gas-Conversion-Kit/44807304?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=984&adid=22222222227039373504&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=92171898377&wl4=pla-183828834737&wl5=9010782&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8453308&wl11=online&wl12=44807304&wl13=&veh=sem

I'm a charcoal guy so the question of how to switch from charcoal briquettes to wood charcoal is just a matter of simply changing it!:D

Dave

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No far from it. That kit BTW is to convert an LP grill to NG not the other way. Also it does nothing to address the valves themselves. On a Weber to do it you need the whole manifold assembly to make a conversion either way.

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Thanks underthehiod,wasnt sure if this forum was active still or not.i beleive the model i have is the high medium low setting on the knobs,if that is what your referring too.what else would i need besides the manifold?just the regulator?this thing is in great shape and the seller wanted 80 and after a hard press i talked him into 20 and he loads it up.aside of maybe some new flavorizer bars,which arent in bad shape anyways,but me being pickey and the heat rack this thing is a beauty.of course compared to my spirit 500,anything is,but my old spirit 500 still makes some mean bbq and tri tip.would i just call weber and ask for a "replacement"lp manifold btw?

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The manifold will include the valves so this will take care of pretty much everything you'll need. I'd ask around here, there is another group that has very active members who will do trades or sales https://tvwbb.com/forum.php

You can ask on that group, watch Ebay and Craigslist. Odds are you'll find someone who wants to do a trade, or has one to sell

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If the photos are the burners on the grill in question.................than yes. But not because of the fuel switchover simply because they're bad. The burners don't care what kind of gas enters them. They just work.

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3 hours ago, underthehood said:

If the photos are the burners on the grill in question.................than yes. But not because of the fuel switchover simply because they're bad. The burners don't care what kind of gas enters them. They just work.

Yes hood those are the burners.i was taking off the manifold and noticed that.i believe happened in transport back to the lab,but maybe not.for 20 bucks i said ehhh how bad can it be.too bad those bolts appear to be a nightmare to come off

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DO NOT even try to remove the bolts inside the fire box. They were never designed to come out. They're only job is as locators not as fasteners. When you remove the manifold the burners slide out from under the bolts (screws) inside the fire box and to the right. They slide in the same way. The bolts that hold in the manifold can and do come out (sometimes not easy) but with patience, love and lots of penetrating oil (my favorite is PBlaster) they will come out. Once they're out find yourself new ones made from stainless steel. Any hardware store will carry them then also go to an auto parts store and get a tube of Never Seize (a small tube will last nearly a lifetime). Coat the threads of the new screws with this prior to reinstalling. If they should break carefully drill them out but DO NOT use a punch or impact the fire box. After the many years and heat cycles the cast aluminum will be VERY brittle and it will shatter like glass (don't ask me how I know this LOL). You'll find some good tips here https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?69605-From-Drab-to-Fab-Putting-together-a-quot-How-To-quot-Restoration-Guide

Here is another very useful video. The guy who made it used instructions and supply list I supplied to him and was able to provide the video http://virtualwebergasgrill.com/2017/05/cleaning-lubricating-weber-gas-grill-valves/#more-2000

Look through these resources and follow the advice in them and you'll have yourself a fine cooking machine

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